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http://www.eandm.co/
Assuming it's economical to do so they'll probably fix it if you pay them.
Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.
I'm close to Milton Keynes so I just made a call and then dropped in.
I’m so bored I might as well be listening to Pink Floyd
At that price I'm tempted to have a crack at repairing it myself.
While E&M are good at repairing stuff quick etc, I do think their private repair costs are a bit steep.
I play guitar and take photos of stuff. I also like beans on toast.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/D5UqhzSCZTPVHmew5
The Relay G10 wireless was fitted with the worse quality micro USB socket I've ever seen on a device. I replaced so many I got sick of fixing them. Literally no attempt to protect the micro USB socket in the design. In a device that needs the port for power let alone firmware updates.
The £60 charge is to cover the time it takes to book it in, get in on the bench, disassemble it and inspect the tracks / pads on the PCB. On virtually all the port will be broken on the inside and the tracks will be fine but sometimes you see the customer has had a go and destroyed the solder pads. Then you have to rebuild those and find a way to secure the port as well.
Once it's on the bench it's a 5 min job to replace the port ...hence most of the money is getting it on the bench and disassembled.
"You don't know what you've got till the whole thing's gone. The days are dark and the road is long."
TE Connectivity and Wurth Electronic type B sockets tend to be over a pound, no name rebrands like Multicomp tend to be about 30 pence ... I would always buy the dearer version.
For my own designs using USB I use a chassis mount socket and that wires to the board via a removable header. There's no issue with this as USB uses a differential pair and it's far more robust than putting the actual socket on the PCB.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B08D353TCY?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
I'm a complete amateur and don't have a soldering station, just a basic soldering iron. I've only ever done simple soldering jobs like cables, sockets and the odd switch. I've certainly never been near a PCB. That said, it took less than 10mins to get the PCB out, even being brave enough to disconnect the ribbon cable. Getting the broken socket off the board was the hardest part of the whole process and I had to take my time as I'm only working with a basic soldering iron and desoldering braid - I'd imagine any pro's with a hot air gun could do this bit in under 5mins but it took me a lot longer!
Fitting the new socket was straightforward but you need to take care when soldering the four small pins to the board as they are very close together. Reconnect the ribbon cable, pop the board back in the case, refit the socket nuts and the baseplate screws, job done.
To prevent having to do it again, I'm going to leave one of the extension cables I referenced earlier in the thread connected and just plug into that when connecting to a computer.
This seems to be a fairly common problem and the replacement part only costs around £1 or less. I hope this shows that a DIY repair is feasible, even for someone with limited soldering ability/ kit like myself.
Be careful as you remove the board as it is attached with a ribbon cable. Once you have the board out of the pedal enclosure, it makes life easier if you disconnect one end of the ribbon cable. Whilst I wouldn't recommend a lot of methods shown in this video (using Pledge to clean contacts?!!) it shows how easy it is to get to the board and unplug the ribbon cable: How to fix a Freezing HX STOMP? (youtube.com) The basic disassembly is from 0:58 - 1:28. Again, I wouldn't recommend using a power screwdriver as you'll likely strip the plastic threads that the nuts screw into.
Once the board is out, you just need to de-solder the six connections circled in the image below:
Pop in your new USB socket, solder the same six connections and re-assemble by re-connecting the ribbon cable, popping the board back in, attaching the socket nuts (finger tight only - they're plastic threads!) and screwing the baseplate back on. Crack open a beer and enjoy.